On July 27 at 11 a.m., Binetti will host a free garden seminar at the Highline Botanical Garden Ice Cream Social. More info at www.binettigarden.com.

Near the end of July, the summer sun and more root growth will cause pots and hanging baskets to demand watering more often.

There is no rule of green thumb for how often to water a container. The amount of water a plant needs depends on the weather, the growth rate of the plant and any survival mechanisms such as succulent leaves that the plant enjoys.

Most hanging baskets in Western Washington will need watering every day. Water enough to see water dripping from the drainage holes. Some plants will stop blooming if allowed to dry out and it could take weeks to entice them into flowering again.

Lack of water is the number one reason that fuchsias and begonias fail to thrive. The most resilient potted plants are trees and shrubs growing in large containers. If a Japanese maple or evergreen shrub has become accustomed to being ignored with little water than over the years these trees and shrubs may adapt to low water use.

But be warned. If suddenly you decide to water a drought resistant potted plant more often you could cause root rot as the plant has little tolerance for becoming a heavy drinker.

Q. Is it true we should not fertilize mums, roses and dahlias after August 1? I have never heard of this before but saw it online the other day. I am learning not to believe everything I read online. J. Email

A. Yes, not feeding perennial plants in late summer is often recommended as they must survive the winter and new growth late in the summer season may not have time to toughen up before winter. But you can break this rule and get away with it, especially with dahlias and hardy roses. In our Western Washington climate dahlias are often dug up and stored in a frost-free location over the winter. As for roses, our winters are usually so mild that a late summer feeding does not cause much damage. As for chrysanthemums, do not fertilize these fall bloomers after August first, as they are forming flower buds and getting ready to bloom. More fertilizer just confuses the bloom production.

Q. My hydrangea has brown leaf tips and brown patches on the leaves. I have checked the soil and it is moist. Please help. P. P. Buckley

A. My first guess is too much sun. The most common hydrangea with big, round blooms such as Endless Summer and the big leaf or Macrophylla varieties prefer shade from the afternoon sun or the foliage will show signs of leaf scorch. Sometimes too much fertilizer will also cause brown tips and brown patches on leaves. The practical solution is to move your hydrangea to a more shaded location. Hydrangeas adapt to life in a large container so you may want to transplant your hydrangeas into a pot to enjoy where the hot sun does not shine. I suggest you wait until early next spring to dig and transplant your hydrangea. A heat stressed shrub does not do well when moved to a new home in the summer.

Tip: There are some hydrangeas that do well in full sun. Look for the Pee Gee or Hydrangea paniculata varieties or hydrangeas with names like ‘Lime Light’, ‘Bobo’ or the hydrangeas with the huge white blooms called ‘Incrediball’ hydrangeas.

Q. I have an arborvitae shrub that suddenly turned brown. Should I plant a new one in the same spot? T., Enumclaw

A. No, you should check the soil first as the sudden death is most likely from photophera root rot. This is a soil borne disease that blocks the vascular system of the plant causing sudden leaf browning and death. If your soil is waterlogged and lacking in organic matter it is more likely to have this fungal infection. Improving the drainage and adding compost to the area will help to keep the root rot away on a new shrub. Waiting until fall or early spring is a better time to add new shrubs than mid summer when they risk being heat stressed.

Marianne Binetti has a degree in horticulture from Washington State University and is the author of “Easy Answers for Great Gardens” and several other books. For answers to gardening questions, visit plantersplace.com and click “As The Expert”. Copyright for this column owned by Marianne Binetti. For more gardening information, she can be reached at her website, www.binettigarden.com.